2017 clos de tart, clos de tart grand cru
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Why We're Buying
Sometimes the best things are the simplest ones. The sentiment rings true with Clos de Tart, a pinot noir from Domaine du Clos de Tart. According to Wine-Searcher.com, Clos de Tart is the most sought-after wine in Morey-Saint Denis and appreciated 50 between 2017 and 2021.
Critics Scores
Burghound.com
A much more floral-inflected nose is equally fresh and ripe with a broader range of spice elements adding breadth to the pretty red and blue pinot fruit aromas. The caressing and wonderfully vibrant medium-bodied flavors possess notably better mid-palate density before concluding in a lingering, balanced and much more complex finale. I like the focused and drive of the finish, indeed this could aptly be described as a wine that delivers power without weight.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a decided success, wafting from the glass with fragrant aromas of orange rind, raspberries, wild berries and peonies that are complemented by deeper-pitched nuances of grilled game, cinnamon and spicy soil tones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with an open, giving profile this year despite its excellent concentration and fleshy core, concluding with a tangy, saline finish. Tasting several barrels of the different components, which had been held back when the assemblage was made, was in a sense more revealing than trying the final blend, since the latter had been racked and sulfited. Once again, Jacques Desvauges used appreciable percentages of whole cluster and matured the wine in 80 new oak.
Vinous
The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was matured in around 80 new oak, the barrels toasted chauff blonde. Jacques Desvauges mentioned that the wine needed oxygen ingress during maturation that only new oak can give. I tasted the component parts (as usual) as well as the blend. This has a very detailed, delineated bouquet offering mainly black fruit mixed with sous-bois, tobacco, clove and bay leaf, the typicité of the appellation showing through nicely. It feels very succinct and yet so fresh. The palate is beautifully balanced on the entry with a killer line of acidity. Pure black cherry fruit is joined by bilberry, hints of black olive and a marine/oyster shell tincture that comes through quite strongly toward the persistent, saline finish, which fans out with confidence. This is a brilliant follow-up to the benchmark 2016 by Jacques Desvauges and his team.
Burghound
A much more floral-inflected nose is equally fresh and ripe with a broader range of spice elements adding breadth to the pretty red and blue pinot fruit aromas. The caressing and wonderfully vibrant medium-bodied flavors possess notably better mid-palate density before concluding in a lingering, balanced and much more complex finale. I like the focused and drive of the finish, indeed this could aptly be described as a wine that delivers power without weight.