2018 domaine duroche, charmes-chambertin grand cru
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Why We're Buying
Five parcels account for the majesty of Domaine Durochée Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Four of the plots have 40-year-old vines, which lend themselves to an austere and multi-dimensional wine. The nose bursts forth with flowers, ripe cherries, cassis, and gaminess. Meanwhile, the palate showcases optimal concentration and a generous finish. This pinot noir has an aging window that spans 25 years, making it a candidate for long-term cellaring.
Critics Scores
Vinous
The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet, a mixture of red and blue fruit (very typical of this vineyard) with floral topnotes. While not the most complex of Duroché’s Grand Crus, it lives up to its name and has plenty of charm. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, moderate acidity. Needs to develop some more tension and bite toward the finish but certainly delivers plenty of persistence. Very fine. (NM)
Decanter
Sourced from what Burgundians often call 'Charmes-Charmes' to distinguish it from the Mazoyères part of this extensive Grand Cru, this cuvée uses fruit from five different parcels, all but one of which is 40 years' old. Floral and intense, with 20 whole bunches adding some freshness and spice, this is a serious, well-upholstered Pinot Noir showing fine tannins and appealingly understated oak. Drinking Window 2023 - 2033. (TA)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing particularly well this year, bursting with aromas of cherries, cassis, grilled meats and peonies. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a deep and multidimensional core, good concentration and a long, lively finish. This is a generous, textural Charmes that will offer a broad drinking window. As I wrote last year, the quietly confident Pierre Duroché—who once represented France in rock climbing—took over this eight-hectare Domaine in 2005. He knows what he wants to achieve and is well on the way to achieving it. Blessed with an enviable patrimony of vineyard holdings and plenty of old vines too, his hand-harvested grapes see gentle macerations and élevage with decidedly modest percentages of new wood. Stems, thoughtfully employed, are increasingly part of the equation. The ensuing wines are beautifully fragrant, with filigree tannins, vibrant fruit tones and sneaky persistence. Duroché harvested early in 2018 and has produced a lovely range of fragrant, elegant and unusually vibrant wines that I can't wait to taste again from bottle. His 2017s, which I also revisited, are showing beautifully, capturing all the inherent charm of the vintage. In short, Domaine Duroché continues its ascent, and readers who haven't yet taken notice should do so before it's too late. (WK)