bollinger, r.d., champagne 2004
JAMES SUCKLING
97
VINOUS
96

2004 bollinger, r.d., champagne

Why We're Buying

Bollinger Rd meets at the intersection of boldness and brilliance. The registered trademark of Bollinger, the cuvée features a mixture of pinot noir and chardonnay almost exclusively from grand crus. According to Wine-Searcher.com, a special James Bond edition of Bollinger Rd ranks as the fourth most expensive Champagne.

Critics Scores

JAMES SUCKLING
97

James Suckling

A superb moment for this late-disgorged vintage Champagne. All the complexity and fruit are here, in the right proportions, on the nose and palate. Grilled peaches, grapefruit, lemons, hazelnuts, espresso and more. Super long, majestic and so rewardingly complex.

VINOUS
96

Vinous

Bollinger’s 2004 R.D., tasted from magnum, is all class. Silky and understated, the R.D is super-expressive and inviting today. In 2004, the R.D. is decidedly light on its feet and more perfumed than tends to be the norm at Bollinger. Candied lemon peel, mint, apricot, pastry and yellow fruits are all laced together in a Champagne that delivers the goods. The 2004 is 66 Pinot Noir and 34 Chardonnay picked between September 25 and October 8. Disgorged: November 21, 2017.

ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE
97

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Fermented in oak barrels and aged under natural corks for almost 13 years, Bollinger's 2004 R. D. Extra Brut blends 66 Pinot Noir with 34 Chardonnay from 16 crus, 88 of which are classified as Grand Cru. The wine opens with a very clear, deep, rich and aromatic but also pure and mineral-fresh nose of crushed rocks, cherries, brioche, pain aux raisin, white nougat, chalk and ripe, yellow-fleshed fruits. Highly elegant and complex on the weightless yet persistent and salty palate, this is an intense, densely woven, firmly structured yet elegant, beautifully refined and refreshing "recent disgorgement" (February 2018) that reveals just a kiss of oxidative flavors that adds even more complexity. A great Champagne on its way to improve over many years in the bottle.

JOHN GILMAN
94

John Gilman

The 2004 Bollinger “R.D.” is a beautiful bottle of wine, where the slightly leaner aspect of the vintage dovetails beautifully with the richer house style here to create one superb bottle of Champagne. It is a blend of two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay, with all of the vins clairs barrel-fermented and the wine was aged more than five years sur latte, all under natural cork. This vintage of R.D. was finished with a low dosage of only three grams per liter, but is perfectly balanced and is now starting to really drink beautifully. The bright and complex bouquet offers up scents of white peach, apple, chalky soil tones, sourdough bread, white flowers, orange peel and just a whisper of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully balanced, with a lovely core, excellent soil signature, refined mousse and bright, acids, which add precision to the very long, energetic and complex finish. This is a superb vintage for this bottling, which is delicious today and should age marvelously for at least another couple of decades.

WINE SPECTATOR
96

Wine Spectator

The lovely nose of acacia blossom, toast and graphite leads to flavors of poached quince, fleur de sel, white cherry, lemon pith and almond skin in this dry and harmonious Champagne. Almost airy and ethereal in texture, yet the finely woven flavor range goes on and on, echoing on the finish.

WINE ENTHUSIAST
98

Wine Enthusiast

The wine’s name stands for recently disgorged and this vintage Champagne was taken off its in 2018. That gave many years for it to develop its depth of flavor, richness and beautifully memorable toasty flavors.

DECANTER
97

Decanter

This is Bollinger’s 2004 interpretation of their famous barrel-aged, recently-disgorged Champagne. This time around it's a blend of 66 Pinot Noir and 34 Chardonnay, having received a dosage of 3g/l before being cellared under cork, unlike the usual practice of using a crown cap for this phase. A bouquet of raisins and spice jumps out of the glass, propelled by a magnificent mint-toned freshness. Tight and crystalline on the palate, it's dense and yet not all that vinous in mouthfeel. The finish is one of ethereal lightness and magnificent balance. Drink with well-aged cheese.

WINE & SPIRITS
98

Wine & Spirits

Time has graced this wine, proving the value of Bollinger’s policy of long aging on the lees followed by prompt release after disgorgement. This RD (Recently Disgorged) 2004 is a joyous wine, staunch, cold and powerful at first, transforming to fresh fruit shadowed by darker tones of barrel fermentation. As it opens in the glass, revealing racy energy, a range of floral pear and apple flavors emerge, resonant with a sense of limestone capturing the sun and reflecting it back in pale power. Enjoy this over the course of an evening as its presence shifts, providing varied perspectives on a great Champagne.