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krug, clos du mesnil 2004
DECANTER
98
JAMES SUCKLING
98

2004 krug, clos du mesnil

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Why We're Buying

Few wines rival the investment-worthiness of Krug Clos du Mesnil. It's a pure expression of a single plot of chardonnay made only during the finest vintages. According to Wine-Searcher.com, the sparkling wine ranks as the third most expensive blanc de blanc in the world. The price tag eclipsed the four-digit barrier in 2017. The 2006 Krug Clos du Mesnil defies easy categorization. On the one hand, it’s supple and graceful with an ethereal weightlessness. On the other hand, it’s powerful and muscular with uncommon richness for the region. Cultivated from a single plot of chardonnay in the heart of Mesnil-sur-Oger, this iconic Champagne survived a challenging growing season in 2006. Fortunately, the extreme heat and rainfall let up at the right time, producing beautifully ripe chardonnay. According to cellar master Julie Cavil, “This Champagne is a combination of outstanding purity and freshness with tension, vivacity, and great balance.” Upon release, wine critics Yohan Castling and James gave the vintage 99-point ratings, with the former calling it “a work of art!” Investment opportunities are limited, though. Krug released fewer than 15,000 bottles of this already hard-to-get Champagne.

Critics Scores

DECANTER
98

Decanter

2004 was a fantastic Chardonnay vintage in Champagne, and there's no more definitive statement of its grace and beauty than this 1.84 ha walled vineyard dating from 1698. The cool winter ceded to gentle mid-summer heat, followed by a prolonged Indian Summer when cooler nights engendered complexity and an almost cerebral linearity. Scents of yellow flowers, nectarine, hints of smoke and slate seduce and beguile, leading to a palate where hints of exoticism are tempered by a firm citric grip and an astonishingly long finish. (SF)

JAMES SUCKLING
98

James Suckling

Aromas of lemon sorbet, chalky notes and white flowers with toasted almonds, backed by a strong, stony mineral thread. Super acidity drive on the palate with a core of pure lemons and grapefruit. Long, smooth-tannin finish. This is both concentrated and elegant. A single location and single variety. Amazing quality here

VINOUS
98

Vinous

The 2004 Clos du Mesnil captures all the pedigree of this epic Blanc des Blancs vintage. A soaring, majestic Champagne, the 2004 dazzles from the very first taste with its crystalline purity and brightness. In two tastings so far, the 2004 has been nothing less than a total showstopper. The vertical structure and pure, tightly-coiled power are the stuff dreams are made of. There is little doubt the 2004 is one of the very finest Clos du Mesnils in recent memory. Will it join the 1979, 1988 and 1996 as one of the all-time greats? Now, that is a tasting I would love to do! (AG) 98+

WINE SPECTATOR
97

Wine Spectator

Evocative of a Bernini sculpture, this vibrant Champagne is equally about the statuesque frame of acidity and chalky underpinning as it is the finely honed details, including the silken texture, the aromas of lime blossom, saffron and incense, and the expressive, woven range of crème de cassis, ground espresso, kumquat, crystallized honey and toast point flavors. Long and focused, echoing the rich profile on the finish.