henri bonneau, chateauneuf-du-pape, reserve celestins 2004
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Classic Bonneau with its knockout perfume of sweet kirsch, blackberry, saddle leather and roasted herbs, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins is medium to full-bodied, supple and elegant, with fine, sweet tannin on the finish. Showing more depth and richness than just about any other wine in the vintage, with a fantastic mix of aromatic complexity and textural richness on the palate, it's drinking beautifully now, and should continue to shine for another decade. (JD)
This starts perfumy, displaying lots of sandalwood, black tea and roasted chestnut notes, turning taut and iron-filled, with layers of black cherry, currant and braised fig fruit filling in the background. Licorice root, black tea and cedar round out the finish, which has tons of grip and cut, but also manages to stay elegant. No Réserve des Célestins in 2003. Drink now through 2027.
Vivid ruby. A highly aromatic bouquet evokes black raspberry, dried lavender, Indian spices and intense minerality. Pure, expansive red and dark berry flavors stain the palate and pick up lively spiciness on the back half. Rich but energetic, with excellent finishing clarity and length.