giuseppe mascarello e figlio, barolo, monprivato 2008
Good medium red. Ineffable soil-driven aromas of strawberry, dried flowers, rust, mocha and pungent minerality. Juicy and highly complex, offering saline, savory flavors of strawberry, minerals and underbrush. This is about white soil perfume and subtlety, not weight but there's terrific intensity nevertheless. Finishes suave and vibrant, with uncanny subtle length. Built for a long and graceful life in bottle. Mascarello owns 6.5 hectares of this prime south-facing cru in Castiglione Falletto. He has mostly lampia clone planted here but also has 18% old-vines michet and 6% rose. (ST) 95+
Detailed and fragrant, offering floral, strawberry, cherry, licorice and spice flavors, this is elegant and underlined by a strong mineral streak. Well-proportioned, picking up intensity and complexity on the long, savory finish. Extremely fresh and classy. Best from 2016 through 2035.
Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Barolo Monprivato is a much more lifted and translucent wine than the 2006 Le Vigne. A wine that needs considerable air, the 2008 only starts to blossom with a few hours in the glass. Monprivato is often quirky, but the 2008 is a real moving target. Just this week alone I have tasted six bottles of the 2008 and found the wine a bit all over the place, especially compared to other wines from the same year. Still, with patience, the 2008 really sings. Ideally, readers should plan on cellaring the 2008 for at least another few years. (AG) 95+