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2008 dom perignon (750ml)

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Why We're Buying

It’s easy to see why collectors and critics love Dom Pérignon. The vintage Champagne is world-renowned, with admirers ranging from Lady Gaga to the Shah of Iran. Dom Pérignon is also made selectively. The estate only declares a vintage when the requisite chardonnay and pinot noir meet its lofty standards. The 2008 vintage not only met those standards but exceeded them. Many have called the vintage one of Champagne’s greatest in decades. The combination of immaculate fruit and low yields has left critics grasping for words. As Wilfred Wong put it, “Studying a wine of this magnitude sometimes needs patience…There is no question this is one of the winery's best efforts.” The Final Sip: Critics love it. Collectors love it. And we think you’ll love 2008 Dom Pérignon, too.

Critics Scores

ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE
95

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2008 Dom Pérignon continues to show very well, offering up a pretty bouquet of Anjou pear, fresh peach, citrus oil, fresh pastry, smoke and iodine. On the palate, it's full-bodied, lively and incisive, with an elegantly textural attack and a creamy core of fruit that's underpinned by a bright but nicely integrated spine of acidity. The finish is long, saline and well-defined. As I wrote earlier this year, this is the finest Dom Pérignon since 1996, Richard Geoffroy's push for additional ripeness working well with the late-maturing, high-acid vintage. While it can be appreciated young, the 2008 will really start to blossom with five or six years of bottle age.

JEB DUNNUCK
98

Jeb Dunnuck

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is the first time the estate has released a wine out of order (the 2009 was released before the 2008) but the estate loved the wine so much they felt it warranted additional aging. This is a rich, powerful wine that still shows incredible purity and elegance, with a stacked, concentrated feel on the palate. It’s rare to find such a mix of ripe, pure, concentrated fruit paired with this level of purity, focus, and precision. This is a legendary Dom that surpasses all the great vintages of Dom I have experience with, including the 1990, 1996, and 2002.

JAMES SUCKLING
98

James Suckling

The best Dom since 2002. A vintage with very restrained, powerful style that has been released non-sequentially after the 2009. This has a lighter stamp of highly curated, autolytic, toasty aromas than many recent releases. Instead, this delivers super fresh and intense aromas of lemons, grapefruit and blood-orange peel. Incredible freshness here. The palate has a very smoothly delivered, berry-pastry thread with light, sweet spices, stone fruit and fine citrus fruit. This really delivers. Drink now or hold.

WINE SPECTATOR
96

Wine Spectator

There's power to this graceful Champagne, with the vivid acidity swathed in a fine, creamy mousse and flavors of toasted brioche, kumquat, pastry cream, candied ginger and poached plum that dance across the palate. An underpinning of smoky mineral gains momentum on the lasting finish. Drink now through 2033.

JOHN GILMAN
96

John Gilman

I had not tasted a bottle of the 2008 vintage of Dom Pérignon since my interview with Richard Geoffroy at the abbey in Hautvillers just a few months before Monsieur Geoffroy retired. I was very happy to see it generously added by John Chapman to our lineup for the second Vega Sicilia vertical that I reported on in the previous issue, as it is a wine of the same superb quality as all those great old Únicos. As I noted in my feature on Dom Pérignon, the 2008 is an absolutely classic vintage for this wine, which means it is structured, structured, structured, and at twelve years of age, still an absolute infant! The primary bouquet offers up a promising blend of apple, lime peel, menthol, superb minerality, a touch of young DP botanicals and tons of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with brisk acids, refined mousse, bruising backend mineral drive and a very long, very pure and seamlessly balanced finish. I scored this a touch lower than the bottle in Hautvillers, but I suspect that this is just the result of context and the wine has not lost any of its luster- it has only hidden its essence even further behind its electric girdle of acidity. This is years away from its apogee, but has utterly brilliant potential.

VINOUS
98

Vinous

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and structure. Today, the richness of the fruit is especially evident. Readers who own the 2008 should be thrilled, but patience is a must.

DECANTER
98

Decanter

Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW: Brioche, almonds and red apples on the nose and palate. Great balance with dosage and acidity. Excellent combination of fruit and bottle age. Stefan Neumann MS: Top-notch salty, mineral, iodine-like aromas. Showing a wonderful sourdough-like character with delicate roasted nuts. Depth and drive, elegance and power. Matt Walls: Deep, intense, full-bodied style of Champagne, voluminous, generous, very powerful and thunderous. Very long – this is a great wine. So harmonious

Region Summary

Champagne is the original gold standard. For centuries, this famous fizz has been synonymous with opulence, celebration, and romance. Combine that preeminent status with surging demand, and Champagne offers a surefire way to add sparkle to any portfolio.

Why We're Investing

Champagne is the most famous and lauded producer of sparkling wine in the world. While other wine regions have imitated this bubbly beverage, none have duplicated its success. Its trademark on the word has only reinforced the region’s reputation as ground zero for authentic Champagne. Unlike most prized wine regions, Champagne experiences cool temperatures that can slow ripening and leave grapes more acidic and less sugary. While the conditions contribute to Champagne’s unique style, frost poses a perennial problem. A single cold front can devastate an entire harvest. As a result, great Champagne vintages are exceedingly rare (e.g., 2004, 2008, 2012). The solution: a reserve stock system. The region’s governing body requires that Champagne producers store 20 of their wine during bountiful years to meet demand during lean ones. This uniquely Champagne safety net provides a hedge against poor vintages and allows houses to manage supply and prices. That way, buyers see less volatility in price performance than in other regions. Stability isn’t the only reason we’re investing. Champagne has been the best-performing wine region over the last five years. It also ranks second best since 2003, behind only Burgundy. That’s not all. According to the Liv-ex Champagne 50, an index that tracks top Champagnes, the region has appreciated every year since the index’s inception, save for 2015. While glitzy brands like Dom Pérignon, Krug, and Louis Roederer dominate the headlines, Champagne’s hallowed grounds are also home to the humble yet equally compelling grower Champagne. This name typically refers to Champagne made and bottled by the same person. By contrast, most Champagne houses use a blend of grapes from dozens or even hundreds of regional growers. Only produced in small batches, these eclectic wines have made stars out of Jacques Selosse, Ulysse Collin, and Cédric Bouchard and have brought more demand to the region. Here’s the most important part. While the most expensive Burgundies will cost you a small fortune (re: tens of thousands of dollars), Champagne has relatively affordable entry prices, on par with those from Napa Valley and Bordeaux. With this blend of performance and accessibility, it’s easy to see why Champagne is the toast of the fine wine industry.

What's the Latest

If there is a limit to the global demand for Champagne, we have yet to reach it. Clever marketing and shifting consumer tastes have fueled continued growth despite headwinds, including rising inflation and a sluggish global economy. In 2021, Champagne exported a record 179.6 million bottles. That figure marked a 37.31 increase from the previous year, and a 15.1 increase from 2019, before the Covid-19 pandemic. The surge in demand has cascaded into the secondary market. A decade ago, Champagne accounted for only 2 of trade share by volume. Today, it is the third most traded region at 8.4, trailing only Bordeaux (38.8) and Burgundy (21.4). Buyers are also becoming more adventurous. More than 570 different Champagnes were traded on the secondary market, a sevenfold increase in the past ten years. The strongest demand has come for large format bottles, which are rarer than the 750 mL format and a uniquely Champagne offering. According to Liv-ex, big bottles have risen from 5.9 to 18.0 of Champagne’s trade share over the last three years.

Looking Forward

The white-hot performance makes Champagne a coveted region amongst any wine enthusiast. With the prestigious brands, relative value, and global demand, there’s reason to think this trend is here to stay. Even though trade is concentrated among a few well-known houses, the region has more than enough depth to appease all degrees of connoisseurs. The numerous strengths should buoy Champagne even in choppy economic waters. That’s in part because of Champagne’s reputation as a luxury good and connections with French luxury holding companies like LVMH and EPI. Luxury goods tend to fare better than other sectors during downturns thanks to steady demand from high-net-worth clients. The extra layer of recession resistance will serve Champagne collectors well no matter what the future has in store.