2017 keller, g-max, rheinhessen

John Gilman

The 2017 G-Max from Weingut Keller is simply brilliant. Again, the inherent elegance of the vintage is very much in evidence here, with the wine showing magical minerality and lift from the short crop and the great quality of the growing season. The youthful nose offers up scents of pink grapefruit, tart orange, a touch of lemongrass, gentle notes of wild yeasts, a very refined base of limestone soil elements, a nice dollop of smokiness and an exotic topnote of spiced meats. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and racy, with a great core, outstanding focus and grip and impeccable balance on the very long, vibrant finish. There is a sense of seamless electricity and endless backend lift in the 2017 G-Max that is simply amazing. 2030-2095.