2018 keller, g-max, rheinhessen
On the nose, a smoky, peaty, and far more overtly mineral impression is conveyed than from the corresponding Abtserde, without the latter’s anticipations of floral perfume. By way of fruit aromas, zesty lime and lemon, piquant huckleberry and prickly, pungent white currant dominate. But on the glossy palate, a succulent influx of ripe peach joins bright citrus and white currant, suffused by peat and crushed stone. Mustard and currant seeds seem to crunch, citrus zests to piquantly glow, and chalky, sooty mineral matter to almost indelibly coat the gums on an electrically invigorating, wake-the-dead finish. Drink: 2022-2038.
The 2018 G-Max is another brilliant young wine. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a complex and very pure constellation of blood orange, pink grapefruit, wild yeasts, limestone minerality, orange zest, gentle smokiness and a topnote of lemongrass and dried flowers. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, racy and utterly seamless in its refinement and perfection, with a rock solid core, stunning mineral drive, ripe, buried acids, brilliant complexity and a very, very long, poised and endless finish. This is probably another perfect wine in due time, but I will give it a bit of room to grow with my stingy score this year! 2035-2085.