94
2017 keller, westhofener kirchspiel riesling gg, rheinhessen
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Critics Scores
94
Vinous
Bright lime and grapefruit are allied with a vivid impression of chalk suffusion, intimated on the nose and then featured on a silken palate. The sense of sheer extract-richness here is formidable. But whereas I tend to think of the mineral character promoted by Kirchspiel – especially in a vintage with high acidity – as conducive to severity and austerity, the texture and generous juiciness on display in this instance make for a Riesling that is infectiously approachable even at this early stage. Chalky and ashen notes lend intrigue while salinity serves for saliva-inducement on a gripping, vibrant, not to mention downright refreshing finish. Drink: 2019-2033.