two hands, aphrodite, barossa valley 2004
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Wine consumers often forget just how brilliant Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon can be as the area is far more renowned for its old vine Shiraz and Grenache, but they should take a look at the 2004 Aphrodite, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 100% new Taransaud barrels. This inky/blue/purple-hued, sexy Cabernet offers a glorious perfume of graphite, creme de cassis, smoke, and vanillin. Full-bodied and stunningly rich, with terrific purity, headiness, and laser-like definition as well as precision, this is a remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon that would turn heads even among Bordeaux first growths. It is a 30 year wine that should hit its peak in 4-5 years.
Big and ripe, a mouthfilling Cabernet that offers a blast of raspberry and black cherry fruit, shaded with savory, meaty overtones that are reminiscent of roast game. A smoky note adds interest to the firm-textured finish. Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2011 through 2019. 96 cases imported. -HS
Inky, opaque ruby. Huge, sexy bouquet of redcurrant, creme de cassis, fruitcake, candied licorice, exotic tobacco and dried flowers. This explodes on the palate, showing an array of concentrated, liqueur-like dark berry flavors, cherry preserves, plums-name a dark fruit and it's in here. Suave oak spice adds complexity and sweetness (this was aged in 100% new, large Taransaud barrels). The dense fruit is surprisingly fresh and suave, with a lightness of touch that belies the outsized flavors. Finishes with very fine, sweet tannins. It's remarkable that a wine with this flavor profile can be so elegant.
A manageable 14.5% alcohol, Two Hands' flagship Cab has dark aromas with a ribbon of raspberry jam running through them. The palate is heavy on bitter chocolate and wood, again, with lifted red fruit peeking through. This is a very good wine overall, but not one that's long enough, or deep enough, to reach that next level.