jacques selosse, millesime 2005
A wine of cool sophistication and finesse, the 2005 Millesime is simply superb today and more expressive than it was when I last tasted it, about a year ago. An exotic mélange of citrus, lemon confit and floral notes infuses the 2005, a rich, deep Champagne loaded with class and personality. Even with all of its intensity, the 2005 remains light on its feet and gracious to the core. The Millesime is a blend of fruit from the Chantereines Les Maladries du Midi lieu-dits, both in Avize. Disgorged November 2015. Dosage is 1.3 grams per liter.
From a duo of Avize Grand Cru parcels, this has a stunning sense of purity about it and is truly driven by terroir with gentle complexity to the élevage. The lemon, grapefruit, and yellow-nectarine fruits are prevalent and pure on both the nose and palate, while other aromas come along in the chalky, lightly spicy zone. The palate has flawless build and drive and the acidity is assertive but wrapped in concentrated citrus flavors and underpinned with fine, smooth phenolics. Fruit flavors run super deep into the finish, which is wrapped in a smooth build of warm, toasted hazelnuts and super-pure chalky notes. This is brilliant now, but age it through to 2025 to enhance the savory richer side of this superb Champagne.