philipponnat, clos des goisses 2006
The 2006 Clos des Goisses is stellar, but it is also going to need quite a bit of time to come into its own. Powerful and ample in the best of the Goisses style, the 2006 hits the palate with serious intensity. Orchard fruits, lemon oil, white flowers and almonds are some of the many notes that open up in the glass, but, as is often the case with young Goisses, it is the wine's gravitas that is front and center. Even with all of its overtness, though, the 2006 retains striking, crystalline purity. I imagine the 2006 will reward Champagne lovers with many decades of truly exceptional drinking. The only thing the 2006 needs is time.
This perfect south-facing vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay is a fine ambassador for 2006. The wine is holding on to elegance and poise despite warm conditions, thanks to a proportion of Chardonnay (35%) bringing welcome freshness and finesse. This balances the generous, expansive Pinot Noir in '06 -acacia honey and black cherry in happy marriage. Subtle and classy.
A statuesque Champagne, with a firm, well-sculpted frame swathed in a fine and creamy mousse, featuring notes of yellow plum, pastry, candied ginger and spring blossom. Delivers a long, chalky finish. Disgorged October 2015. Drink now through 2030.