taittinger, comtes de champagne blanc de blancs 2005
Shows lovely balance, with a chinalike backbone of acidity, finely meshed with a creamy mousse and rich and toasty flavors of roasted hazelnut, creamed apple, lemon parfait and spun honey. A vein of smoky minerality echoes on the finish.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The Taittinger 2005 Brut Comtes de Champagne leads with a maritime aromatic amalgam of salinity and alkalinity, behind which emerge candied grapefruit rind and white peach, all anticipating the flavors that dominate on a strikingly succulent and mouth-filling yet buoyant palate. Candied ginger, marzipan, and fresh lime add to the zesty invigoration of a finish whose pronouncedly marine character serves to open my salivary glands’ floodgates. As with their other cuvees, buoyancy is here allied to a judicious and supportive hint of sweetness. This ought to be worth following for several years, though on no account should it be overlooked in its present condition.
With just a touch of bottle age giving a toasty character, this impressive wine is already showing some maturity. That said, the apple and citrus character, the mineral tight texture and crisp acidity promise some aging. The wine conveys a sense of elegance, intensity and richness. Drink now, but the wine will also age.