m. chapoutier, hermitage, l'ermite blanc 2014
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The wine of the vintage (and I’ll include all the wines of the northern Rhône, red and white in that grouping) is the 2014 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc. Always made from 100% Marsanne that comes from the granite soils of the l’Hermite lieu-dit, it was aged 11 months in 25% new demi-muids before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Its medium-gold color is followed by a heavenly bouquet of liquid rock, hazelnut, caramelized pineapples, stone fruits and quince. Thick, unctuous, full-bodied, thrillingly pure and laser focused with a dry, blockbuster finish that just won’t quit, it needs 2-3 years of cellaring and will drink nicely over the following three or more decades.
Rich but racy, with a core of melon, white peach and yellow apple fruit streaming through, carried by a mouthwatering quinine note. The finish is gilded with honeysuckle and jasmine details, giving this lift and brightness. A light salted butter accent at the end brings you back for more. Drink now through 2030.
Brilliant gold. Fresh, mineral-accented pear and Meyer lemon on the nose, developing hints of toasty lees, iodine and fennel with air. Juicy and seamless in texture, offering concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors sharpened and lifted by zesty acidity. Finishes sappy, stony and very long, the echo of citrus zest adding bite and focus. There's a Chablis-like quality to this wine that I find fascinating.