egon muller, gallais wiltinger braune kupp auslese versteigerung, mosel 2016
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2016 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Auslese (Versteigerung) opens with a noble yet very delicate botrytis, raisin and grapefruit aroma on the nose (botrytis settled at the end of October). Round and lush on the palate, this is a lush, incredibly sexy Auslese with generous but precise fruit and a terribly complex and persistent finish. Gosh, this is gorgeous, highly stimulating and piquant. No chance to spit! In fact, I had to swallow the whole glass during what will remain a once-in-a-lifetime experience, since just one fuder was produced and 60 bottles were auctioned in Trier in September 2017 for about 350 euros. That means the other 500 bottles won’t sell for less. Tasted March 2018.
This was picked in November, after the 10-day pause called at the estate. By then, along with additional phenolic evolution and air-dried concentration, the Braune Kupp bunches, unlike those in the Scharzhofberg, had acquired a small but significant measure of noble rot – botrytis of a clean, relatively dry sort that did not in any way preclude precision and clarity in the resultant wine. “It’s unusual to let the grapes hang this long in the Kupp,” explained Veronika Lintner, “because this site is usually where botrytis begins, so it’s where we start picking.” High-toned evocations of purple plum and quince on the nose anticipate a glycerol-slicked yet brightly juicy palate suggestive of quince preserves mingled with tart-edged, singed purple plum and smoky black tea. A tactile sharpness akin to pineapple core ratchets up the wince-inducing sense of invigoration, yet there is a simultaneous sense of textural silkiness. The paradox of richness and brightness continues in a startlingly concentrated, penetrating and almost tear-jerkingly gripping yet at the same time enveloping and richly mouth-coating finish.