2017 domaine rostaing, cote rotie, cote brune
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Why We're Buying
Domaine Rostaing, also known as René Rostaing, has defined Côte-Rôtie since its debut in 1971. The estate's Côte Brune syrah is far and away its most expensive wine, retailing around $450 per bottle, as of 2021. It's also a wise investment. From 2017 to 2021, the price has more than doubled.
Critics Scores
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Côte Rôtie Côte Brune boasts the same knockout nose as the 2016, then layers all those herbal, floral, spicy complexities with jammy berry fruit. Massively concentrated, with a rich, velvety texture and a dry, tannic finish tinged with espresso and licorice, this should be another great Côte Brune from Rostaing. This wine comes from a parcel inherited from Marius Gentaz, which Rostaing replanted in 2000. Get in line now. When I arrived at the domaine, I went in an opened door and came upon René Rostaing, who was putting labels on bottles for shipment to the United States. I told him I had an appointment and he said, "Let me get the boss." We went across the street to the winery building, where he handed me off to his son Pierre, who is fully in charge of the winemaking now. He cranked the ventilation fan up to high so we could taste in the cellars, despite ongoing fermentations above. Following up on his exciting 2015s, both the 2016s and 2017s look similarly outstanding. He's releasing two additional single-vineyard wines (Côte Brune and La Viallière) from the 2016 vintage as an homage to his ancestors, with label designs from the past (Gentaz-Dervieux and Dervieux-Thaize). Of course, quantities are tiny, but not only are the labels retro-cool but the wines are damn good also. (JC)
Jeb Dunnuck
Even better, which is hard to believe, the 2017 Côte Rôtie Côte Brune is pure silky and is as elegant and seamless as they come. Like the Côte Blonde, it has an incredible floral quality as well as complex notes of classic Côte Rôtie black raspberries, violets, flowers, new leather, and spice. The tannin quality is off the charts and this already offers pleasure today, yet it won’t hit prime time for another 7-8 years and will keep for 25-30 years.
Decanter
Rostaing's Côte Brune is only made in the best years, which recently have been 2013, 2016 and 2017. It's sourced from 20-year-old vines on very poor soils, with a bit more clay than average but not deep. Soaring floral aromas of rose, violet and potpourri lead into a medium-bodied palate showing the most beautiful purity of juice - so concentrated but so lifted. Tannins are very refined, but very much present and strong. It has a very long, pure finish with a touch of menthol and citrus freshness, and a gently mineral undertow adding to the length. An extraordinary, beautiful, spellbinding expression of Cote-Rôtie. The yield of 30 hl/ha has produced 1,000 bottles. Drinking Window 2025 - 2038. (MW)
Vinous
Deep, youthful violet. Deeply perfumed aromas of ripe blackberry, boysenberry, incense, violet candy and smoky minerals show excellent clarity and spicy lift. Impressively concentrated and alluringly sweet, offering palate-staining dark berry liqueur, licorice candy, bitter chocolate and violet pastille flavors, complemented by a touch of exotic spices that emerges on the back half. Finishes broad, chewy and strikingly long, with steadily building tannins and resonating florality. (JR)