domaine du pegau, chateauneuf-du-pape, cuvee reservee rouge 2017
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Pegau's distinctive violet and garrigue aromas are on full display in the 2017 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée, backed by plummy fruit and velvety tannins. It's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and rich, with ample length and hints of mocha and licorice on the finish. Not as sexy out of the gate as some vintages, I'd give it another year or two in the cellar, then drink it over the next decade or so.
This is dark and winey, with a serious core of steeped fig, black currant and blackberry fruit that shows broad shoulders. A second wave of warm paving stone, bay leaf and tar strides in on the finish, resulting in a powerful swath of fruit and earth in the end. A bit of patience is needed here. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2023 through 2037.
Lastly, and tasted from bottle, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Réservée showed brilliantly, with the beautiful, Provençal character of the vintage as well as classic Pegau notes of red and black currants, smoked herbs, cured meats, new leather, and ground pepper all front and center. More in the style of the 1999 or 2005 than say the 2007 or 2009, it’s medium to full-bodied, has beautiful concentration, ample structure and tannins, and a focused, backward mouthfeel that’s going to benefit from bottle age. This beauty will evolve for 30 years or more.