domaine jamet, cote rotie 2017
A tasting of five different barrels, drawn from 24 blocks across 19 lieux-dits, mostly schist terroirs in Ampuis and St-Cyr. It's almost 100% whole bunch in 2017, with a minimal 15% of new oak used. Gerine is ripe and harmonious, with intense, sappy fruits and muscular tannins. Fongeant is sleek, dark and elegant. Le Plomb/Le Truchet takes tannin from the first site, acidity from the second and displays a soaring fragrance of burnt herbs. Tartaras/Bonnivières/top of Fongeant has incredible freshness and tight, fine tannins. Lastly, La Landonne, Côte Blonde, Moutonne and Côte Rozier has intense, tight, saline tannins and juniper and liquorice-tinged dark fruits. The overall impression is a powerful, ripe, structured and very fresh Côte-Rôtie, very well balanced with bright acidity, that will age impressively.
Just bottled, literally, the day before my visit, the 2017 Côte Rôtie nevertheless showed incredibly well, with loads of violets, pepper, game, framboise, and darker fruits. As Côte Rôtie as Côte Rôtie gets, this full-bodied beauty has ultra-fine tannins, intoxicating complexity and nuance, no hard edges, and a great finish. Give it 4-5 years of bottle age and enjoy over the following 20 years or more.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2017 Cote Rotie was still in separate lots when I visited, yet I came away with remarkably similar impressions from the Gerine (fragrant charming and silky) and le Plomb (taut, intense and structural) as I did last year. A number of other lots will go into the final assemblage (Chavaroche, Fongeant, Lezardes and several more, probably including La Landonne). There's more cracked pepper and violets on the nose of the 2017 than the 2018 and also a touch more crispness and tension on the palate.