The Final Verdict on 2021 Bordeaux En Primeur

Let’s be honest: the 2021 vintage has been viewed with little enthusiasm.

The entire year was a challenge. Producers were nervous about mildew. They worried about ripening. Most ominous of all was the infamous April frost.

Then came primeurs week, and we got a classic Bordelais vintage. Rather than highly solar offerings like 2018, 2019, and 2020, we returned to an era of classic Bordeaux. These wines are fresh, youthful, refined, and a beautiful homage to the 1980s and 1990s.

The 2021 vintage most closely resembles 2017. Top wines are elegant and precise, with the latest vintage delivering slightly more weight and power. Anyone who prefers young Bordeaux wines should find them lovely.

How the 2021 Growing Season Impacted En Primeur

The efforts in the vineyard were obvious. The red and white wines show remarkably well considering their youth and hold great drinking and aging potential. 

Remember, 2021 was a year where virtually everything that could go wrong did. Because the winter was relatively mild and had favorable rainfall, bud break came early. That proved disastrous, as much of France was hit with a historic frost on April 7th and 8th. While the river offered a moderating influence, many châteaux suffered severe losses, especially in Sauternes. The total harvest volume in Bordeaux was 15% lower than in 2020.

Few were spared from tumultuous spring weather in Bordeaux. Saint Êmilion (pictured above) faced mildew, hail, frost, and coulure.

Summer was unseasonably cool, which caused slow maturation. September was better with weeks of dry weather and sun that accelerated ripening. Winemakers were faced with a choice: wait for full maturity and risk rot or pick early with less ideal ripening.

Many chose the first option, which proved a sage decision, especially for those growing cabernet sauvignon. Many grand vins had historic levels of cabernet sauvignon because of their above-average quality. As Château Lafleur owner Baptiste Guinaudeau put it, "This is not a vintage of concept or idea, but of action.”

Ranking 2021 Bordeaux White Wines

The 2021 white wines stand out for their freshness and vibrancy. Those with sauvignon blanc and sémillon are particularly well-balanced. While the whites lack the voluptuousness and fruitiness of past vintages, wine connoisseurs will be pleased by the racing acids and swirling aromas of orchard and tropical fruits.

If you want wine from Sauternes, prepare to pay extra. The frost hit the region particularly hard, reducing the yields by 70% from the previous year. Fortunately, botrytis did come, and the wine that was bottled is truly magnificent.

Château Haut Brion stood out in a crowded field of white wine tasting. 

If I could only pick one white, it would be 2021 Château Haut Brion Blanc. It competes with the greatest white Burgundies in terms of depth and richness. Château Haut Brion Blanc has also received glowing reviews, with some writing, “A wow white wine that competes with top vintages of Montrachet and Coche Dury. Clearly, this is the wine of the vintage.” Other investment-worthy white wines include 2021 Pavillon Blanc de Margaux and 2021 La Mission Haut Brion Blanc.

Ranking 2021 Bordeaux Red Wines

I’m all in on 2021 red Bordeaux. These wines are elegant, nuanced, and detailed, with linear construction and breathtaking refinement. The evocative and luscious aromas don’t hurt either.

 Some industry insiders have commented that “this is a vintage for Burgundy lovers.” (No, that is not a typo.) The reds have more silkiness and lower levels of alcohol (usually 12.8%-13%) than the typical vintage. There is also ample fruit and density, with restrained power and firm tannins.

"It's a change of paradigm. Fresher wines, with less alcohol, which will be ready to drink faster, while keeping their density," said a representative at Château Smith-Haut-Lafite (Pessac-Léognan). Sure, they are less opulent than their predecessors, but the style is classic, nonetheless. Anyone who tasted the first growths and other top châteaux should be pleasantly surprised.

I tasted dozens of wines at 2021 Bordeaux en primeur. If I could only pick one, it would be La Conseillante. For starters, it’s almost ready to be drunk this year, which is quite unusual. The purity and silkiness are intoxicating, with a finish that resonates for ages.

There is no shortage of excellent Bordeaux, but none made more of an impression than 2021 La Conseillante.

"We're back to the standards we've seen in the past and to a beautiful expression of terroir,” noted Bertrand-Nicolas, co-manager of Château La Conseillante. “If we hadn't had the last three years, with a lot of opulence and density, this vintage would have been considered by the press as a very great classic vintage.” 

The Bottom Line

The 2021 vintage compares favorably to 2017 one. It’s showing well in youth, with top-tier wines poised as legends in the making. This vintage is a technical triumph and testament to the resilience of the terroir considering the dogged weather setbacks. As Jacques Thienpoint, owner of Château Le Pin, put it, “All the merit for this year goes to those who were in the vineyard.”